13 April 2006

The Mines in Potosi

I departed to Potosi after getting money and controlling the swelling with ice on my head. Potosi is cited as the highest city on the whole world, 4,070 meters (13,350 feet) above see level. The main attraction here is the silver mine which dates to 1,530´s where the Spaniards exploited the natives to extract silver and send it to Spain. I met two english guys on the bus and we decided to look for a hostel together. So for 60 bolivianos per day we had a room with four beds. Of course we are picking the cheapest places so a room will only have the beds, blankets and light. The bathroom is outside and it is to be shared with the rest of the travellers. When talking to the english men, we found also a little strange that the locals got sick when taking the buses to these highlands and also due to many turns, ups and downs. So, as a rule I am carrying also plastic bags in my pockets. I don´t know when I will be a victim. The same night of arrival, monday 3 of April at 4 pm, we started looking for a tour that take us next day to the mines. After visiting four offices we picked the one on which the tour guide was a former miner and the maximum number of visitors to the mine were just 10. I have been carrying my coat I used in Seattle and even though I always thought it was very uncomfortable to carry, and also it made feel very hot anytime I saw it hanging in my closet in Brazil, it was perfect for this cold city which temperatures ranges between 2 and 17 celsius (36 and 63 Farenheit). Next day the regional bus system was on strike. They are protesting because the government now is mandating them to pay taxes. So we had to walk catching our breath every ten steps towards the van that was taking us to the mine. Once by the entrance of the mine, our guide told us to ´cooperate´with the miners by bringing them coca leaves, cigarretes, waters, soda, and dynamite for their jobs. We all bought all these needs for the miners who get paid very low (1,000 bolivianos per month). I found the tour guide to get a little political when mentioning the way foreign companies come and exploit the workers and taking all the money for them. That because the silver went down on the market the poor miners are now in jeopardy of loosing their jobs. He was not able to answers questions like what is the life of this mine now, or who pay the miners after all. Our former miner guide was not able to identify some stones he picked up. We were a little skeptical about his background. But, what do I know about mining, I assume it could be hard to tell what minerals are in a rock just by looking at it.
It was definetely an experience that made me see how some people can work under bad conditions. We gave what we bought to the miners as they passed by. Inside they were about six detonations which made all of us have thoughts of being trapped in this dark and cold cave. Good thing we were using helmets since I hit my head several times. We also went down about fifteen meters (49 feet) down to see how a couple of miners were drilling a new spot they found. One of the visitors complained since he found it dangerous to go down to that level while miners were still drilling. The dust was also heavy but we had bought some masks to protect ourselves.
At the end of the visit, which last about two hours, our tour guide detonated some dynamite. We also thought that 40 meters (131 feet) from the detonations were not too safe. In any rate and after battling with a dog that felt invaded when passing by its owner house we thought the visit to the mine was more of trekking experience more that informative. It is for sure something not to miss.

2 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

ya pe super tonin, no sea tan mano dura!

11:57 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

listen, it looks that you do not have anything good to say to JOSE ANTONIO. He is taking the time to write about his experience, and because of that we all can be part of his adventure. GIVE HIM SOME CREDIT.
THANKS Jose Antonio

8:18 PM  

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