04 July 2006

The rest of Peru?

As I left Arequipa, and visiting some members of my mother family I decided to go to Trujillo, the city where I grew up until high school, to stay there for some time and take a break from my travellings. I write this long after my stay in Trujillo. I saw some friends, walked around the halls of the house, walked around downtown recognizing stores and places. I do the same thing anytime I come to visit. I pay attention when walking around or going to the pubs or restaurants. There is always somebody I recognize, perhaps with less hair or more weight. So it is inevitable to talk and ask about people we used to hang out when I lived in this city. I find out that some people died, or moved out or have business or had plastic surgery.
I wanted to travel a bit too, so I went with my youngest brother to Cajamarca to visit a friend of mine who has been working there for almost four years already. Cajamarca is the city where the Spaniards walked in when they started the conquest of the Inca Empire. It is the city which was the turning point for what Peru is now.
We went to watch the Cumbemayo ruins, then with my friend Richard to the Inca's hot springs. This hot springs are similar to the ones I went in Oruro and Santa Teresa and Calera, although they have built three big pools wich is filled by these natural waters. We got a beer and relaxed around seven on the evening. My brother had to go to work to Chiclayo after our second day so I Richard prepared the grill and had an easy Sunday. Next day I did some hiking by myself. The sky was blue and the cottonish clouds above the andes and the meadows were just the perfect companions for the silence and tranquility I breathed that morning. I also went to a graveyard used by the pre-incas. They used this hill and made a bunch of holes where the placed the body's bones, sometimes these holes were for a specific family so a hole could have inside different and smaller cavities for all the member of the family. When one stands away from the hill, the holes look like small windows (ventana in Spanish), hence the name for the graveyard: "Ventanillas de Otuzco". On the afternoon I went to The Colpas, a big farm, almost a ranch, where it used to be one of the main producer of milk for the region. The record for one cow was of 46 liters of milk in one day. Now they barely make it to 20. In the seventies there were some reforms in the Peru that affected the efficiency of these type of farms. The attraction now is that when is time to milk the cows the farmers call them by their name and they walked one by one when hearing their name. I couldn't leave Cajamarca without visiting the "Rescue Room". The last Inca Atahualpa was captured by the Spaniards on 1532 and he was promised freedom if he filled this room with gold and silver. He did what he promised but the Spaniards killed him anyways. Standing by the door of this room I wanted to describe what I was feeling. It has happened so long ago but the Spaniards didn't do what they promised, Atahualpa's freedom. So I sensed treachery and dishonesty, which I can't stand. Of course when in war you can not make your enemies your allies so I guess history has been repeating itself along the centuries. So I sensed logic. Now being so far away from Peru and in a country that has gone through much more I think the Rescue Room is just a piece of history which made a deep mark in Peru and I will use that to understand that things of the past are gone for good or for worse but that's what they are. Just marks, not the end of our present lives.

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